Andrew Black September 2008

Derenoncourt on the 2008

In early September, when some Bordeaux producers were privately starting to write off the 2008, Stéphane Derenoncourt remained optimistic, predicting that once again an Indian summer would turn things round.
Since then, the weather has been perfect. This was what he said...

It hasn’t been the summer that the Bordeaux growers were hoping for. Are you
feeling less optimistic about the 08 vintage?

“I’m still optimistic. After all the trouble we’ve had just to keep the crop on the
vines, with all the downy mildew threat and the rain, I think we’re in a relatively
good position. I’d even say that we’ve done a fantastic job to be where we are
at the present time.”

But how good are those grapes that you have worked so hard to preserve?

“They still need to ripen. But Indian summers have become one of Bordeaux’s
specialities, and I think that with some good, dry sunny weather in the second
half of September we can look forward to a classic-style Bordeaux vintage.
Deep colour, good acidity and nice balance. The mid-palate will probably be
lacking a bit of volume because of the lack of a sustained period of hot
sunshine in August.”

Do you think it will be risky to hang on for perfect ripening with the threat of botrytis,
which is already breaking out in some vineyards?

“There is always a risk, and it will depend on the weather we get leading up to
the harvest. I have to say that once again this will be “une année de vigneron”
-those growers that have worked hard and well in the vines this year will be in
a better position to wait for the ripening without too much of a risk, unless it
pours with rain of course. You speak about about botrytis breaking out, but I
would say the vines are generally very healthy.”

Do you have an idea of the date of harvest?

“In Pomerol, the harvest should be starting between the 22 and 25 September,
which means that in the heart of Saint Emilion it won’t be until the beginning of
October, the same in the Médoc. There’s a delay of roughly a week to 10 days
compared with an average year.”

People are talking about heterogeneity. There seem to be differences in ripening and
also volume not just between areas but between estates and even plots. Is it possible
to pinpoint appellations or zones where the potential is superior to others?

“It’s a difficult question to answer, because the unevenness you are referring to came from a very tricky
flowering. It was more successful in some zones than others, and so it’s hard to make generalisations.
Overall, the old vines were unfortunately hardest hit by the poor weather during flowering.
The young, vigorous vines fared much better, which doesn’t augur well for the
complexity of the wines. If you asked me to name a sector which is clearly
better off I couldn’t do it. All the appellations are in the same boat. The
important thing is to see how things develop between now and the harvest...”

Will it be another good vintage for the whites?

“First of all, the white crop will be very small. It’s still difficult to assess the
potential quality of the whites, but the balances are looking pretty good at the
moment. Those musts that I’ve tasted are very aromatic, but you know the
white grapes are behind schedule as well, so we have to wait and see there too.”

We can be sure, though, that this vintage is not going to produce outstanding, rich
opulent wines, can’t we? Can we compare the reds with 07?

“2007? I can’t say for the moment. But you’re right that this is never going to
be an exotic, super ripe vintage. It won’t be an 05, 03 or 00, simply because we
haven’t had the sunshine. It’ll be a traditional, cool weather Bordeaux vintage.”